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D3 - Body and Exterior Bumpers, bonnets, glass, trims - Everything outside

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  #1  
Old 2nd December 2017, 11:58 PM
neeldub neeldub is offline
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Post Rear Passenger Door Lock Removal Guide

Hey guys,

So i started to suffer from a faulty door lock on the rear passenger door. The door wouldn't open from the exterior door handle but it would from the interior handle. VCDS revealed the following fault codes stored in the door control module:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 62: Door, Rear Left Labels: 4E0-910-802.lbl
Part No SW: 4E0 910 802 A HW: 4E0 959 801 D
Component: Türsteuer.HL BRM005 0180
Coding: 0028462
Shop #: WSC 02313 785 00200
VCID: 1E3454EBC9CD25B683-804A

1 Fault Found:
02115 - Locking Unit for Central Locking
008 - Implausible Signal
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 0
Reset counter: 231
Mileage: 0 km
Time Indication: 0


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A quick Google search revealed that this issue is caused by a faulty door lock on the verge of dying. The only fix for this was to replace the lock unit itself. I managed to find a 2nd hand one on ebay for £30.

Part Number: 4E0 839 015 H

Below is a guide on how to replace the unit. It is quite a task if i'm honest as you have to remove the following:
  • Door Trim
  • Door Electronics Module
  • Assembly carrier/Window Regulator rails
  • Window Frame
  • Door Seal

You will need the following tools:
Cross Head screwdriver
Torx 25 and 30 Screwdrivers
8mm Socket
Ratchet Set
M8 and M10 Triple head socket heads
Trim Tools

It's a good idea to have some door trim clips handy as you are very likely to damage them while removing. Part number: 6Q0868243

Firstly we have to remove the door trim.



Prise off the tweeter cover with a trim tool






This reveals an 8mm bolt which we need to remove.





There's another 8mm bolt inside the storage compartment. Always leave the compartment closed while attempting to remove the bolt otherwise it will get stuck behind the door trim insulation.. it's just more work for you to remove it..save yourself the hassle.









We now have to remove the door trim. Do so by starting at the bottom...slide a trim tool or even your fingers and start pulling the trim towards you to disengage the clips. It's hande if you can have someone stand and hold the door firmly while pulling. Once the bottom clips are out slowly pull upwards and lift off the trim to reveal the bowden cable and tweeter wiring which we have to disconnect from the loudspeaker.









If you can get someone to hold the door trim for you, it's much easier to disconnect the cables and wiring especially the door trim wiring from the Door electronics module.







Example of a damaged door clip



Door trim removed





Next we need to remove the rubber covers to reveal the screws for the window tabs which attaches to the regulator.



Lower the window till you can see the screws. Take them out using the Torx 30 screwdriver.









Next we need to take off the Door Electronics Module unit. Unplug all connections then take off the 3 screws with a Torx 25 screwdriver. Pull the unit towards you to disengage and remove.













Pull the window glass up and tape it up to hold in place.



Pry off the wiring harness from its retaining tabs so we can remove the mounting panel with more ease.







Unplug the loudspeaker connection



Now we have to undo all the Torx 30 screws which holds the mounting panel in place. There is a total of 14 to remove.



Push the bowden cable grommet inwards.
We can now loosen the panel with a flat screwdriver at the edge then pull the lower section out then down to free the panel from the door.







We can now see the door lock unit





But we now unfortunately have the more tricky part of removing the window frame. We first need to remove the rubber strip around the top of the window frame. Start this by prying off with a flat blunt tool. I wasn't able to take pictures of this step. But you'll end up with this







Also lift up the rubber trim at the bottom of the window.





We now have to remove 4 bolts using the M10 triple head bits. There are two on each side. They are easier to access once you get the rubber strip out of the way.















There are 3 Torx 30 screws to remove as well.





Next it's time to take off the door seal



Undo the screw then slowly pull out the seal from it's bracket.



We can now pull off the window frame and keep somewhere safe.









Clearer view of the door lock





Unclip the rod from the exterior door handle. Price the clip off then slide out of the handle then remove the two M8 bolts to set the lock free. Don't forget to disconnect the wiring.









Replace the lock and install everything in reverse. Do check the gaps of the window frame so you angle it accordingly before fully tightening the bolts.

Do clear all fault codes using VCDS as well.

If i missed anything, please let me know and i will add the information on here.

Thanks
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Old 3rd December 2017, 02:02 AM
H-M3 H-M3 is offline
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Bravo! definitely a sticky. I am dreading the the task as I have to do both my pass door handle led lights (puddle)! Do I have to take the glass frame to do that?
Cheers neel for spot on pics.
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Last edited by H-M3; 3rd December 2017 at 02:07 AM.
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Old 3rd December 2017, 05:42 AM
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Architex_mA8tey Architex_mA8tey is offline
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Great write up and pictures - thanks so much! Added to the "Body and Exterior" Sticky at the top of the section. Personally I have just seen exactly the same symptoms appearing on my LWB Oyster Grey D3 so that's well spooky but the write up will help change it and I might take to opportunity to get the rear little triangle rubbed down and resprayed while it is off the car at the same time as it is exhibiting some rust under the paint - thanks again
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Old 3rd December 2017, 08:17 AM
neeldub neeldub is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H-M3 View Post
Bravo! definitely a sticky. I am dreading the the task as I have to do both my pass door handle led lights (puddle)! Do I have to take the glass frame to do that?
Cheers neel for spot on pics.

No the window frame doesn't need to come off for the removal of the door handle. Though it can get a little tricky to remove the handle bracket..just need to loosen all wiring and fiddle around with it.
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Old 3rd December 2017, 10:02 PM
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A great write up, especially given you performed the whole process whilst parked out on the street in LDN! I dread to think how many times you had to shut the door because of passing vehicles!

Well done you!
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Old 3rd December 2017, 11:45 PM
neeldub neeldub is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audidothat View Post
A great write up, especially given you performed the whole process whilst parked out on the street in LDN! I dread to think how many times you had to shut the door because of passing vehicles!

Well done you!
Thank you for the compliments. I figured that just like me, people find pictures more helpful rather than just text.

As for traffic, my road is quiet on the weekends so it wasn't so bad at all considering it's just off the main road. I hardly had to close the door lol.
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Old 4th December 2017, 10:07 AM
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Excellent work. Thanks for the clear instructions and photos.
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Old 4th December 2017, 10:37 AM
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Default Bravo

Great write up, lucky you didn't have the electric blinds to deal with too.
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Old 4th December 2017, 10:51 AM
neeldub neeldub is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delboy View Post
Great write up, lucky you didn't have the electric blinds to deal with too.
Are they quite tricky to remove?
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Old 4th December 2017, 02:55 PM
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Just an extra added pain in the arse, fiddly and a pest to put into service mode.
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