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Old 6th August 2019, 01:58 PM
Furryhobnob Furryhobnob is offline
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Default Das pro v2 tips anyone?

Hi guys, have just bought myself a das pro v2 as when cleaning the car it takes hours to clean and wax etc, went for the v2 over others as it's meant to be more user friendly and less likely to damage the paintwork, and should hopefully cut time instead of buffing on and off by hand.
I also bought some menzerna products as I read its good for hard German paint, I've already got a cleaning bag full of products like black hole glaze, super resin polish, clay bars, wax etc.
The d3 s8 I've recently bought in aqua blue has swirl marks on when hit by sunlight but is in reasonable condition considering its 12 years old so I'm hoping to get rid of the cobweb effect.
Products and pads are

1 x Menzerna - Heavy Cut Compound 400

1 x Menzerna - Medium Cut 2200

1 x Menzerna Super Finish 3500

1 x Menzerna - Power Lock Sealant

1 x Menzerna - Heavy Cut Foam Pad

1 x Menzerna - Medium Cut Foam Pad

1 x Menzerna - Soft Cut Foam Pad

1 x Menzerna - Premium Wax Pad

I'm hoping some of the experienced guys on here can help, would the medium cut foam pad with the medium cut 2200 be enough to get rid of the swirls, then finish off with the super finish 3500 and sealant, I was then going to wax on top of that for extra protection, or would I be better starting off with the heavy cut compound? Thanks in advance
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Old 6th August 2019, 09:47 PM
Bushido Bushido is offline
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Welcome to the world of detailing! A few thoughts and suggestions if I may from Distinguished Detailing...

You have a great machine to be using. It really is a case of throwing yourself in to having a go , enjoying it and understanding that to accidentally burn / burnish through paint is quite unusual unless you are being very rough and insensitive to what you are doing. So that said, I would have a first go along these lines...

Keep the rpm around 2000 when correcting paint imperfections. It isn't about anything more than allowing the machine, pad and product to work together to do their thing. You are creating heat to work and correct the paint. That heat is your friend - unless you are careless or unobservant with your work.

Keep the pad both lubricated and clean of debris (swarf) . By this I mean after each 2-3 top ups of the product, use a nail brush or tooth brush on the lowest speed to just clean the pad off. Lubricate it again, new product and work it through again.


Pads and product combinations are not a set formula in honesty. With experience, you will mix and match and adjust the speed of the machine to suit your own style and skills. 2200 with a medium cut pad will be a safe starter set up. I would urge you to keep the pad moving across the paint (maybe 3 seconds to cover 30cm areas) , stop after 3-4 passes, wipe the area with a clean cloth and just look at what you are actually achieving. Allow your eye to fall in and start to see the marks and issues fade / diminish as you work.


Of all the bad habits to avoid - do not feel the temptation to lean down on the machine or stay stationary in a single spot. Both dramatically increase the potential to generate too much heat and also leave you blind as to what is happening under your pad. And that is all that matters! lol


Please also remember that (short of burnishing through paint) there is nothing that you can do to the paint that cant be rectified or improved later on. ie If your paint / product is proving too aggressive, you will see tell tale signs of buffer trails (ghosting) that just need a change of pad and product eg moving down to your soft pad and 3500. Drop the speed to 1000rpm and just slow passes back and forth as if you were fine sanding a piece of wood.


Final thought for tonight - do not become too focussed on how others describe different paint types (eg Audi and BMW being notoriously "hard paints") JUst relax, enjoy the time and experiences and learn as you go.


PS remember that plastic bumpers and trims are far more heat sensitive! Move the pad across the paint at twice the speed (eg 2 seconds for 30cm) and keep the touch light and just keep watching what you are achieving as you go.


Keep us in the loop and we will guide you through as you go
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Old 6th August 2019, 09:51 PM
Bushido Bushido is offline
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Just as an introduction,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ja13RF1tMQ4

These Chemical Guys are always easy to follow and offer great advice and guidance as you go
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Old 6th August 2019, 09:54 PM
Bushido Bushido is offline
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Re-reading your post, remember that cob webs are really VERY fine imperfections that will respond really well and QUICKLY to the set up that you have there. Work a panel at a time and go through the correction, refining it down to a high shine, through to the wax and sealing. Its a lovely feeling to have a great panel to then both admire and replicate across the car as you go.

Over and out
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Old 6th August 2019, 09:56 PM
Bushido Bushido is offline
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PPS leave the Menzerna 400 and heavy cut pad in the bag. They will come in to their own in time - but not just yet
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Old 6th August 2019, 11:24 PM
H-M3 H-M3 is offline
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Top advice! Always try with the least aggressive combo and see how it goes. Work on the flat panels first so you get to know the machine. Remember prep prep and prep, It’s the key. Most of all enjoy
NB make sure to use some painters tape (3M) to mask the plastics and the edges.
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Old 7th August 2019, 03:37 AM
Furryhobnob Furryhobnob is offline
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Wow, some great posts there guys, and very informative, the weather kept me at bay yesterday but I'm hoping to get out one day this week and start on the car, really looking forward to it, and learning as I go along.
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