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-   -   Parking sensor buzzer location (http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/showthread.php?t=16198)

Nick Jones 26th March 2021 11:55 AM

Parking sensor buzzer location
 
So.... VCDS says that the reason I get one long irritating beep (from the front) and no working parking sensors when I selector reverse, is because the rear buzzer is broken.
Seems a bit unexpected, but before I can test/replace it, I have to find it. It doesn't appear to be obvious so before I go ripping trip off at random any clues? Or do I just need new glasses?

Thanks

Nick

MikkiJayne 26th March 2021 12:03 PM

Its under the rear shelf on the left side of the car.

Nick Jones 26th March 2021 01:01 PM

Thanks MJ..... :)

Nick Jones 26th March 2021 01:37 PM

ok.... so is this under the rear shelf in the boot (which as far as I can see, it isn't, even with the speaker covers off, or under the rear shelf trim panel inside the car?

Does the trim panel come out without removing the rear seat? :Confused:

MikkiJayne 26th March 2021 01:51 PM

Its under the rear shelf trim panel in the cabin, between it and the sheet metal.

Rear seat base out - two screws under flaps in the footwell carpet.

Rear seat backrest out - two screws at the base plus two m6 bolts underneath the centre rear headrest, behind the leather flap at the base of it. Also remove the seatbelts and flip them over on to the shelf to make it easier. Then lift the backrest up 1" each side and tip forward. A second person is helpful to lift it out.

Then speakers out and two plastic rivets at the base of each quarter window and the shelf slides forwards. You can get to the buzzer without removing the shelf from the car - just drop it down where the seat backrest was, with the belts still in it.

If you have a rear blind then there are three 10mm nuts under the shelf, accessible from inside the boot. I would recommend removing the D-pillar trim panels to get a blind out cleanly without damaging anything but thats a whole order of magnitude more work.

Nick Jones 26th March 2021 02:00 PM

Jeez.... typical Audi access!

I'll buy a new one first then because I'm not doing that more than once. I think I can see the plastic rivets that hold it from inside the boot.

Many thanks for the info - would have taken me a while to work that out for myself.

Nick

Nick Jones 1st April 2021 05:37 PM

3 Attachment(s)
I tackled this today. So unnecessarily awkward...... and with a scorpion sting in the tail.

Rear seat base out, disconnect two little occupancy sensor wires and heated seat wires.
Then remove 4 x M8 blts holding the rear seat base rear hook points. Not sure why they need to be 30mm long.... 15 would have been ample.

Undo the lower centre seat belt anchor point

Then remove the two screws holding the wire loops on the bottom of the seat backs.... and after figuring out how to access them behind their little roller modesty blind the two M6 bolts in the centre. Then lift the seat back up to unhook from the upper mountings. Hard with one person, but possible.

Disconnect airbag wires and heated seat cables and wrest the seat out. It's heavy and awkward.

Now you can see the two plastic trim rivets holding the parcel shelf and winkle then out. You still can't get the parcel shelf out though as the (Bose) speakers are holding it.......

Into the boot and remove the 10 screws holding the two speaker covers to the underside of the parcel shelf.... and the two screws each side holding the speakers.... Back inside the car you can now left the speakers out and disconnect them.

Finally the parcel shelf can be slid forward and the buzzer accessed. It's held by two plastic trim rivets. What a daft place for it.....

Multimeter confirms it's open circuit. Fit new one after a bit of cussing as until I worked out I could put my arm through the speaker hole, it was looking like a two-person job to reassemble the rivets!

Reassembly is the reverse of removal..... (yes, I was a Haynes technical author briefly....) except that I reckon you need two people to get the rear seat back re-hooked....

Carefully plug everything back in and route the wires out of the way.

Parking sensors now work...... yay!.

Oh.... but wait..... now the airbag light is on. Have I offended the b@stard controller just by unplugging the wires without even turning the ignition on.....? Or have I failed to make one of the connections properly......?

Plug in VCDS lite...... can't to connect to the airbag controller. Will connect to everything else though, including the parking sensor controller which shows no error after the historical buzzer error was cleared.

Try connecting to the airbag controller twice more..... nope.
Try my superVAG 2. Nope that won't connect to it either...... though it will to other modules.
Try my Thinkcar dongle. That won't connect to anything, which is fairly normal, useless POC that it is.... .

Arrrgh..... so I've fixed one fairly trivial irritant and the car has rewarded me with a much bigger problem.......

Why do I bother with this 4 rings tat?!:mad:

Any clues/suggestions on the airbag welcome.....

Nick

MikkiJayne 1st April 2021 06:04 PM

Oh dear. It is possible to get the back seat refitted solo, just not easy. Get it roughly in place then hook on one side at a time and it'll go in.

I suspect you've either missed, or not fully seated, one of the airbag connectors for the back seat, or possibly disturbed one of the seat belt igniters. Unfortunately even if you fix it the light won't go out without resetting the code, which will probably need proper VCDS by the sound of it. Is there anyone nearby with the full version?

Nick Jones 1st April 2021 09:05 PM

Yeah..... I wanted the fault location from VCDS so I could find an fix it. The non-connection is a worry as Iíve not had trouble with this before. Have connected to airbag controllers with this exact setup before without trouble, including my previous PFL A8. Possibly not on this car, though sure I did a general fault code scan when I first got it and the only thing that came up was the parking buzzer.

I do know someone with the proper kit so can try that

Nick

HPsauce 1st April 2021 10:26 PM

Definitely try with a genuine RossTech cable first.
I've used VCDS-Lite (and before that VAGCOM) with "generic" cables and had assorted issues connecting to different controllers, even with a genuine registered (paid for) copy of the software. Magically with a genuine cable the problems disappear and they all talk.
Might not be your problem but it's where I'd start. And the genuine version will let you reset the codes too. ;)


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